Fall Garden Chores

Yard chores don't stop with the first frost. In some respects, they're just beginning.

Most of the work for next year's yard and garden starts in the fall with clean-up. Sanitation is key to reducing insect and disease problems for next year.

Plant debris should be removed and composted. Compost piles properly maintained should reach an internal temperature of 140 degrees F. necessary to kill insects and disease organisms.

Burying debris in the ground may be adequate for plants such as marigold or petunias that suffer few pest problems. However, most perennial foliage should be composted.

Foliage should not be removed from plants until it turns yellow or brown. Green foliage is still manufacturing food for next year's growth.

Avoid removing foliage to the ground. Leaving an inch stub on peonies, chrysanthemums and other perennials aids you in locating the plants as they are sprouting next spring. An inch stem stub won't increase insect or disease problems.

Check the foliage carefully for signs of insect or disease problems as you remove it. Never leave peony foliage near the dormant plant as the chance of botrytis disease problems next spring increases drastically.

All perennials, trees and shrubs need a thorough watering before the ground freezes. While plants appear dormant, roots are still actively growing and functioning.

Evergreens probably demand a more thorough watering than any other plant. Pines, yews, junipers, arborvitae, spruces, boxwoods, hollies and rhododendrons lose water through their leaves during winter. It's important roots have a supply of water to replace what's lost.

The last watering should take place before the ground completely freezes. This date usually occurs between Thanksgiving and Christmas.

To prevent freezing and thawing injury, perennials should be mulched with six to eight inches of an organic material. Compost, partially decomposed leaves, woodchips and bark can be used. Allow the ground to partially freeze before covering plants.

It may be necessary to make wire cages to enclose sensitive plants such as nandina, tree peonies and roses. Cages can be filled with lightly packed compost or leaves.

Mulch isn't used to keep the cold from damaging perennials and well established plants, but to maintain a uniform soil temperature. Freezing and thawing can heave plants from the soil, exposing roots to the drying winter winds and sun.

On the other hand, mulch applied before the ground freezes can add a few extra weeks to the root development of newly planted trees and shrubs. Eventually, however, the ground will freeze beneath the mulch.

Fall planted trees and those with smooth bark may need some protection during the winter to prevent winter injury such as sunscald or frost cracking. Damage usually occurs on the south and southeast part of the tree. The winter sun warms the bark during the day, causing it to expand. Night temperatures quickly cool it, causing tissue damage and cracks. Commercial tree wrap material is available at garden centers and nurseries. Wrap the trunk from the ground to first set of branches.

Rabbit and mouse damage can be prevented by encircling the trunk of shade and fruit trees with a chicken wire cylinder with at least an inch gap between the trunk and wire. The cylinder should be at least three feet high. Shrub roses and ornamental shrubs can be encircled with a larger cylinder to prevent injury.

Source: David Robson, Extension Educator, Horticulture, Springfield Extension Center

Autumn 1999
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