Mulch Reminder
Most of us are well aware of the benefits of using natural mulches
in planting beds and around trees. Remember, too much of a good thing
can
yield bad results. Adding too much mulch around the base of a tree
or shrub can have the same effect as planting too deeply. The mulch
can
actually kill the plant it is intended to help, essentially smothering
it with kindness. Keep these ideas in mind as you add mulch to your
planting beds.
A mulch is a material that is applied to the surface of the soil
around a plant with the intent of maintaining favorable soil conditions.
We
generally suggest use of organic mulch such as compost, leaves, bark,
various hulls or shells and pine needles. You can find out more about
specific materials at the University of Illinois Extension Web site
http://www.extension.uiuc.edu/IPLANT/ where
mulching is discussed. Inorganic mulches are materials that do not
decompose
so they do not add organic matter to the soil. They include such materials
as stones and brick chips. Inorganic mulches often serve a purpose
in design, but are usually more expensive, do not improve the soil
and can
be costly to remove if a design change is desired.
Mulch helps to insulate the soil. Certainly the soil will become
hot or cold with time anyway, but mulch helps make this change more
gradual.
Sudden temperature drops can be extremely damaging to trees and shrubs,
predisposing them to infection by canker fungi and other pathogens
such as Verticillium. For this reason, mulching can help you avoid
some diseases.
Mulch also has been shown to keep soil temperatures as much as 10 degrees
cooler in the summer, again avoiding heat stress and disease susceptibility.
The National Arbor Day Foundation recommends removing grass in the
area to be mulched and mulching in an area around the tree that is
from 3
to 10 feet in diameter, depending on the tree size. You will see differences
in mulching depth recommendations, but we tend to advise that mulch
be not less than two inches deep and no deeper than four inches. If
you add more
mulch, thinking that more is better, you may cause other problems.
Roots need oxygen to grow. If soil is always saturated with moisture,
roots
begin to decline. In a wet season, planting beds with very thick mulch
will cause them to dry out. This is especially important on clay soils
or in newer subdivisions where soil is compacted or has poor drainage.
Problems with white pine provide a good example of how too little and
too much mulch can be troublesome. We have been seeing white pine problems
for over 20 years in Illinois. This species does not grow well in alkaline,
clay, and poorly drained, hot soils. Because we tend to plant them
as windbreaks or in exposed sites, we make many mistakes right from
the
planting date. White pines benefit greatly from mulch, especially because
of the advantage of insulating roots from high soil temperatures and
maintaining soil moisture. If mulch is used at an excessive depth,
however, roots are stressed and wet conditions promote a root rot called
Phytophthora.
The most important message about mulching is to keep the mulch at
least four inches away from the tree trunk. Physical contact of the
mulch with
the tree is not lethal. Problems occur when the mulch is several inches
thick against the trunk. This collar area of the tree needs air exchange.
Moisture held up against the trunk does not allow this to happen and
tree decline results.
The Plant Clinic frequently fields questions on mushrooms or fungi
growing in mulch especially bark mulches. These fungi are not harmful
to plants.
They are growing in the mulch because it is an organic source of nutrients.
The fungi also must have moisture to grow. In dry spells, we tend to
water our planting beds, so we see these fungi all summer long, rain
or no rain. I am not advocating removal of the mulch and I don’t
think you should stop watering your plants. Don’t look at the fungicide
shelf as a solution to mushrooms in your compost. Most fungicides won’t
have any effect on these mushrooms. Instead, get out the rake and mix
up the bark mulch. This will help it dry out and will keep mushrooms
under control.
Spring 2003
Hort
Shorts | Hort Tips | Crabgrass:
A Weed’s Weed! | Health & Household
Tips | Perennial Plant of the Year 2003 |
Mulch Reminder | Using Organic Fungicides | Bug
Bites: A Bug Bite is Not Always a Bug Bite | Lawn
Care Calendar | Cybergarden Sites | Pondering
Early Planting? Think Lettuce | Eggology | Soup
for Supper | Protein-Rich Diets and Weight
Loss
Index
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