Water Houseplants…..The Right Way
Are you confused about watering your houseplants? Many people consider
it a simple matter, watering their plants whenever they think of it.
Others are more methodical. They water regularly, according to the calendar,
regardless of their plants’ needs. Neither of these approaches
is best for the plants.
Just what is the right way to water indoor plants?
It’s important to catch them before there’s any sign of
wilting, but, it’s a mistake to keep soil wet all the time; it
just encourages root rot. Room temperature and humidity, even how sunny
or cloudy the weather has been, all affect a plant’s water requirements.
Learn to read the signs that your plants need water. Foliage turns
a slightly duller, less lively green. Succulent leaves become a little
rubbery. The container feels lighter weight as moisture evaporates from
the soil. And soil feels dry to the touch, first at the surface, then
below it.
Water requirements vary among different groups of houseplants, but
regardless of what types of plants you care for, water them thoroughly
each and every time you water. Then spill out the extra water that comes
through the drain holes.
Cacti and succulents maybe allowed to get quite dry between waterings,
though when light is good, they’ll thrive on additional moisture.
Plants with tough leathery leaves such as the old-fashioned rubber tree
or ponytail palm can also go for quite a long time from thorough watering
to the next.
Most foliage plants should be watered before much of their root system
dries. When you first find the soil surface no longer feels moist, there
is still moisture further down in the container. This is good, because
for most houseplants it’s best to avoid wild swings from extremely
dry to extremely wet soil conditions.
The type of potting soil in which your plants are growing can have
an impact on how often you water. So can the type of container. Always
use clean, fresh potting soil that consists of different sized particles.
Varied particle size results in good soil drainage. The more moisture
you wish the potting soil to retain, the higher its peat content should
be.
Layering pebbles or charcoal in the bottom of a solid container will
not help soil drainage. Instead, choose containers with drain holes
so water can drain freely from the soil. Be sure to spill out any excess
water that remains in the tray or saucer after a few minutes. If the
container is too large to lift easily off its tray, use a plastic turkey
baster to siphon most of the extra water.
Don’t use “softened” water unless you really have
no choice. It adds chemical salts to the soil which eventually build
up and injure roots, just as excess fertilizer does. If you must use
softened water, hold your containers over a sink or wash basin and water
them heavily each time you water. This flushes much of those salts,
even though some new will be added. Of course, pots must have good drain
holes for this to work.
Chlorine, which is added to city water supplies to purify it for drinking,
is not present in large enough amounts to damage houseplants. Fluorine,
added to fight tooth decay, may be a different story. Certain plants,
mostly those with long, pointed leave such as dracaenas and spider plants,
are quite sensitive and can develop brown tips. However, water is rarely
the only source of fluorine and most plants have no problem with city
water.
What does trouble them is icy cold water. Most of the houseplants
we grow originated in the tropics or sub-tropics where rainfall is relatively
warm. If you water directly from the tap, adjust it to feel barely lukewarm.
Or take the easy way; keep a full watering can at the ready for any
time you might want it. Its contents will always be room temperature,
making it easy to respond to the needs of individual plants.
Source: University of Minnesota Extension
November-December
2002
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